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FoxFour
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Posted: Sep 25, 2005 - 07:04 AM
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Active Member

Joined: Jul 20, 2005 - 03:45 PM
Posts: 112
Status: Offline
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Hey Habu - this one's for you:
I always felt the F100 nozzle wasn't the easiest part of the F-16 kit to paint. I did these some time back, just haven't gotten round to putting them on the kits yet. I noticed some -200/220 nozzles (real ones!) have a slight bluish tint on the band forward of the turkey feathers and was wondering how to replicate that... with clear blue perhaps? Wasn't sure if it would stay on the metalizer surface if I masked it for spraying then peeled off the mask.
Really appreciate it if you could share some tips on nozzle detailing.
TIA! |
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Sponsor
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Posted: May 19, 2013 - 4:51 PM
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F-16.net Sponsor
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Habu
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Posted: Sep 25, 2005 - 09:25 AM
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Elite 2K

Joined: Oct 21, 2003 - 06:12 AM
Posts: 2738
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| You're absolutely right. The bluish tint just comes from spraying clear blue. Gotta make sure it's thin, and that you spray it on lightly. |
_________________ Do your homework, Tiger!
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Habu
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Posted: Sep 25, 2005 - 09:27 AM
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Elite 2K

Joined: Oct 21, 2003 - 06:12 AM
Posts: 2738
Status: Offline
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Here's the nozzle on my recently completed CA ANG jet. The nozzle is the Aires resin, which is the best PW nozzle I've sever seen. They did a great job on it. As you can see the band has th slight bluish tinge. Like I said, gotta add it lightly.
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_________________ Do your homework, Tiger!
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Mad_Viper
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Posted: Sep 25, 2005 - 12:32 PM
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Enthusiast

Joined: Mar 13, 2004 - 04:55 PM
Posts: 74
Location: The Netherlands
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I also tried to replicate the bluish tint on the ring. I've mixed tamiya chrome silver with clear blue and came up with this.
I really liek the result on the birds. |
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FoxFour
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Posted: Sep 27, 2005 - 02:18 PM
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Active Member

Joined: Jul 20, 2005 - 03:45 PM
Posts: 112
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OK - will go try that out.
Yeah, agree with you about the Aires nozzle, though the ones I have are the turkey featherless version for the F-15. Actually, what I'd really like to get are F-16 nozzles in the closed position, but there doesn't seem to be any around, except for the sorry-looking one in the Italeri kit...
Thanks for the tips, guys. |
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Habu
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Posted: Sep 27, 2005 - 03:56 PM
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Elite 2K

Joined: Oct 21, 2003 - 06:12 AM
Posts: 2738
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| Sure thing! |
_________________ Do your homework, Tiger!
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Rexxxx
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Posted: Oct 10, 2005 - 05:24 AM
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Senior member

Joined: Mar 29, 2005 - 01:56 AM
Posts: 265
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While we're on the topic of nozzles, what's the best color match for the GE F110's turkey feathers?
Habu, what did you use for your prize-winning entry back in April?
Thanks! |
_________________ 62FS, Luke 02-03
524FS, Cannon 03-06
560FTS, Randolph 06
50FTS, Columbus 06-10
13ASOS, Ft Carson 10-
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Habu
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Posted: Oct 10, 2005 - 06:36 AM
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Elite 2K

Joined: Oct 21, 2003 - 06:12 AM
Posts: 2738
Status: Offline
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Alclad II-Jet Exhaust!!!  |
_________________ Do your homework, Tiger!
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Rexxxx
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Posted: Oct 10, 2005 - 06:19 PM
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Senior member

Joined: Mar 29, 2005 - 01:56 AM
Posts: 265
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| Cool, I'll have to look for that. Ever use any Model Master Metalizers? Doesn't look like their Exhaust would quite match. |
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Habu
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Posted: Oct 10, 2005 - 07:14 PM
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Elite 2K

Joined: Oct 21, 2003 - 06:12 AM
Posts: 2738
Status: Offline
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MM Metalizers don't hold a candle to Alclad II. I've completely eschewed the use of MM Metalizer anymore. Once you start using Alclad, you'll never go back  |
_________________ Do your homework, Tiger!
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Boman
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Posted: Oct 22, 2005 - 12:08 AM
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Elite 1K

Joined: Jul 08, 2004 - 08:22 PM
Posts: 1106
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Habu
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Posted: Oct 22, 2005 - 12:38 AM
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Elite 2K

Joined: Oct 21, 2003 - 06:12 AM
Posts: 2738
Status: Offline
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| Hold up! I have those CE nozzles, but they do NOT fit a Viper! Even if it says so on the package it's for a Viper, it just doesn't fit the Hase kit. The diameter is about 1mm too small all the way around. You're left with a big step that isn't present. For a PW nozzle, the best one is the Aires. Much more detail in it as well, you get a turbine face, PE flame holder, burner can, nozzle ring, outer nozzles and inner nozzles. |
_________________ Do your homework, Tiger!
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falconfixer860261
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Posted: Oct 25, 2005 - 12:15 AM
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Forum Veteran

Joined: May 17, 2005 - 04:21 PM
Posts: 984
Status: Offline
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If you want real accuracy paint some widthwise cracks on the inside nozzle flaps.  |
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FoxFour
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Posted: Oct 25, 2005 - 04:27 PM
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Active Member

Joined: Jul 20, 2005 - 03:45 PM
Posts: 112
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Boman - yeah I thought so too those CE nozzles look neither open nor closed, and now with Habu's input, I'm definitely giving it a pass!
falconfixer860261 - betcha you can't beat this one for realism:
When I was a kid, I had a thing about playing with fire - always looking for stuff around the house to burn. At the same time, I had lots of sprues from completed kits to dispose of, and one day I discovered I could do one with the other - that stuff burns great, makes a real sooty flame! When the ash it gives off lands, gotta get it off quick or it stains. Fingers were all black when I was done cleaning, and something made me smear them on the nozzles of a couple of my kits - looked realistic because it was real soot!
BTW, I don't do that anymore, but if you want to try it, better make sure you don't have your paints or aerosols around!!! |
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falconfixer860261
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Posted: Oct 25, 2005 - 05:11 PM
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Forum Veteran

Joined: May 17, 2005 - 04:21 PM
Posts: 984
Status: Offline
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| Pastels work really good too. Rub it on your finger or a soft pencil eraser then rub it on the model. Also if you want to duplicate the streaking on the clamshells/ventral you can dot a thinner wash with some black paint in it and then hit it with just air from your airbrush. You have to make sure to keep the stream parallel to the slipstream but the results are nice. I know people like nice clean models but the real thing only looks that way a few days after coming back from a repaint. |
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