Forum: F-16 Procedures

I’ve only got 5 years on these puppies, but I’m fortunate enough to work with technicians that have been on these things since Jesus Christ was a corporal.

For an engine, FF Transmitter, or anytime the manifold needs draining … the best trick I learned was to drain the fuel straight into the centerline tank (if installed)

Any others? Thumb

F-16.net Sponsor

Pet the living hE|| out of fuel coupling, and work it full range (in/out) about a dozen times before getting the motor into the bay. (Petrolatum for the newbie) This makes the coupling much easier to extend and align when connecting to the engine.

Be sure to hit the nozzle support of the engine with a good fresh coating of dry-lube prior to sending it to the line for an install. Helps the panel slip back over it into position.

Whenever changing a JFS ignitor or JFS start fuel nozzle, replace the other. It only adds 5 minutes to the job, but better than starting over with the panel, ops checks, etc if the one you did change doesn't work. Easy to do them both during engine phases too or whenever you have a JFS out.

Add all the information from Pratt & Whitney's "Engine Monitoring System Manuals" to the FI! There is 10x amount the technical information there about what actually CAUSES a the fault. Helps a lot during troubleshooting of those rare (and sometimes obscure) engine faults. At least update the FI to show a more logical replacement of parts when all else fails. The EMS book lists the most probable fault driving component first, unlike some of the trees in the FI which have you change the easiest parts first even though they're rarely bad.

Whenever in dirty/dusty/dry conditions be sure to wipe off the LOD lens from time to time. Helps eliminate those pesky augmentor re-cycles, or LOD fail faults. That lens does get soot on it, and the FI will drive you to clean it AFTER you've had an issue. Preventative maintenance tip - Clean them off during an engine inspection when you're in the augmentor inspecting stuff anyhow.

It's late, I'm sure I'll think of more later...

Keep 'em flyin' Thumb

That_Engine_Guy wrote:

Pet the living hE|| out of fuel coupling, and work it full range (in/out) about a dozen times before getting the motor into the bay. (Petrolatum for the newbie) This makes the coupling much easier to extend and align when connecting to the eng.

That’s a good one … a GE coupling kicked my a$$ a few weeks ago (for an hour) until our resident super chief, ex fuel shopper popped the bitch in for me in under a minute. Embarassed

VarkVet wrote:

That’s a good one … a GE coupling kicked my a$$ a few weeks ago (for an hour) until our resident super chief, ex fuel shopper popped the bitch in for me in under a minute. Embarassed

I've been on both sides of that story too... Rolling Eyes

Just have to tap the GE manifold around in the right places. Or you can deal with the beyatch bolt on the rt v-fin panel for the pratts. Pick your poison. But for as nice as it looks the GE manifold is harder to hook up than the pratt.

Pet on the packing and using the 9 Lvl screwdriver or 1/2 extension works very well. Place the end on a sturdy backet on the engine, and give that little fitting that's on the side of the manifold tube a nudge foward, and it slips in every time.

I recently had to change a brake control valve and since it's the third one I've done in the last year or so (different jets) I was stumped for a minute when it failed the follow on brake checks. Hydraulic shop was going to have me replace the valve assy again thinking it was bad from stock. Then I remembered that some hydraulic fluid had dripped on one of the cannon plugs while it was disconnected. A quick shot of contact cleaner (ask E&E shop) cleaned it up and it passed the check and is still working fine.

Forum: F-16 Procedures

Viper maintenance tricks that should be added to the book